Dye lot tracking, and why fabric inventory falls apart without it
Every fabric business learns this the expensive way: two rolls of the same style, dyed on different days, are not the same colour.
What a dye lot is
A dye lot is one batch of fabric dyed together in a single run. Water chemistry, temperature, dye concentration and machine loading all vary slightly between runs, so two lots of the same colour differ — usually just enough to be invisible on the roll and obvious on a finished garment.
The trade handles this by keeping an order inside one lot. A cutter laying a marker will place panels from the same lot together, and a garment made from mixed lots will show the difference at the seam under store lighting.
Why spreadsheets cannot hold it
A spreadsheet can record that you have 800 yards of style 1050. It cannot easily tell you that those 800 yards are 317 in lot CJ-2401, 295 in CJ-2402 and 188 in CJ-2403 — and that a 400-yard order therefore cannot ship from one lot at all.
That distinction is the entire question. Total yardage tells you whether you can fill the order; lot breakdown tells you whether you can fill it without a claim.
What proper dye lot tracking requires
Stock has to be held at roll level, with each roll belonging to a lot. Available-to-sell has to be calculated per lot, not per style. Allocation has to prefer a single lot, and when it cannot, it has to say so loudly and require approval before cutting.
It also has to handle the aftermath: the short end left when a lot is nearly exhausted, and the memo swatch a salesperson cut off a production roll without telling anyone.
Questions
- What is a dye lot in fabric?
- A dye lot is a batch of fabric dyed together in one run. Fabric from different lots of the same colour will differ slightly in shade, which is why an order should be filled from a single lot wherever possible.
- Can you mix dye lots in one order?
- Only with the buyer’s agreement. Mixing lots produces visible shading across a finished garment and is a common reason shipments are rejected. If lots must be mixed, get written approval before cutting and record it against the shipment.
- How do you track dye lots in inventory software?
- Each physical roll is recorded against a dye lot, and stock figures are calculated per lot rather than per style. Textile Wizard does this natively: available-to-sell is shown by lot, and any allocation spanning more than one lot is flagged for shade approval.
Textile Wizard